An Interview of Fashion Designer Navirah Zafar in Dior of Pakistani Culture

From her first display of clothing in 1995 of Islamic Calligraphy in New Delhi to her present fashion show in Paris Couture Fashion Week 2007, Nilofer Shahid by far is the ambassadress of her country's tradition. Meeras is one of the leading haute couture fashion house in Pakistan, it produces bridal, formal, causal and western wear for women along with accessories and its own exclusive men's wear line.

Nilofer Shahid of this renowned fashion house belongs to a prestigious Pathan family of warriors, poets, writers and painters. Her progressive and culturally rich family has endowed her with a sensitive appreciation of the art and rich tradition of an ancient land. Meeras means heritage and her creation capture, in their richness, intricacy and attention to detail, the grandeur of the vast Islamic legacy .Her detailed research into each one of her themes ensures that her creations are true to their origins but also display her magic touch, whether it is her Central Asian line, her Mughal Recreations or her Moroccan inspired ensembles.

Equated Dior of Pakistan by "Le Figaro' in Paris, Nilofer's forte lies in the profound attention she pays to detail; every collection is preceded by intensive sessions of research so that every piece is a depiction of art as it is of history, of couture as it is of culture. All this contributes to her strong signature style, which has managed her to capture clients from all over the world.

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What inspired you to become a fashion designer?

When I started there were no fashion designers in Pakistan. For me it was a series of evolution that aspired me to become a fashion designer. In late 70s this career was quite challenging, as there was no recognition of fashion designers. My interest in couture led to a little workshop in 1978. I started off with block prints and hand painting; to my credit I was the first one to start fashion designing in Lahore. It was my great interest in art related to our culture that inspired me to come into designing. I professionally launched my career in 1991 in the form of couture house known as Meeras. The depiction of the past into the present predominantly inspired me, as I'm passionate about our roots, culture and background.

What was personally important and appealing to you about this career?

To be very honest I had a vision of myself going places. Even at that time in 1991, I had this vision of seeing my collection on Paris runways. I had always aimed and believed of achieving something higher. My designs come from my heart. The message I wanted to portray in my clothes, locally and internationally was to showcase how beautiful the Pakistani culture is, as oppose to India who had already established its culture internationally. Unfortunately, we don't have an image and whatever image we have is bad. For me it was a challenge to nullify this image and by gods grace I have been an ambassador to my country in this respect.

You don't have a fashion designing background as far as your studies are concerned, do you ever feel it as an obstacle in your fashion-designing career?

In order to survive and excel in fashion designing aesthetics play a vital role compare to an educational background. Yes, I have always felt that I didn't study technically and I feel the void within, but on the other hand one may study for 10 years and not excel practically. For me hard work and the depth with which I structure my art has been my key to success. As everyone knows my fashion house has supported fresh graduates from PSFD hiring them as internees. For me as a person and a designer one should always be at the giving end. Working with fashion graduates has helped in my learning process i.e. technically you learn a lot from them. Overall my experience with them has been harmonious and for them working at Meeras gives them a taste of what lies forth for them in the field.

People say you have a perfectionist approach and you are finicky from accessories down to shoes, what do you have to say about this?

Yes, I'm a perfectionist, saying I'm my own worse critic would be spot on. I judge my work very harshly and work wise I don't cut comers for anything. For me possessing this nature is something I'm proud of and I would not go about it in any other way. If you are finicky then you are perfectionist and that's what my nature curtails me to do. If I'm doing a collection on Islamic Calligraphy, I need to read books in order to know about the whole ambiance it caters too, thus to bring forth that feeling and convey the respective cultures engrained message. To me staying authentic to the real thing is utmost important. If I don't have knowledge of something I do my thorough research before beginning a project. When I was doing Omar Khayyam or Khalil Jabbrar my designers also had to do there research before starting work. With this kind of approach teaching the young graduates has been a good experience for them and me. And luckily some of them after working with me say they can't work anywhere else. Being true to my work has made me achieve so much, "Then I must be doing something right (commenting sarcastically).

How do you define style?

Style has always been a pre-dominantly used and abused word. Style has no boundaries as such; one could be stylish in a bohemian dress or look effected in a high-end designer gown if not having the poise to carry it. To me style is not acquired it is in-built. My style is classic, its something that comes from within, it's the way you sit, eat, drink, talk and communicate with people. Style is not just about dressing; it's more about your daily life, the way you conduct yourself at home, gathering or workplace. I always tell my clients to carry themselves as princesses, they can't wear my dress and slouch, they need carry it with style and dignity.

You were part of Paris Fashion Week, how was your experience?

It was not just any fashion week it was Paris Fashion Week. For me it was a miracle showcasing my collection in Paris. The theme of my collection was a dialogue between. Empress Noor Jehan (Mughal) and Empress Josephine (Paris). I wanted to show a fusion of our heritage and that of Paris resulting in a creation, which exemplified the symbolic emergence of the two cultures. The collection was white as both the queens were renowned for their love for white. Josephine's white was that of fine fabrics. Paintings portraying her role of Merveilleuse or those of her crowning or holding court at the Tuileries always showed her clothed in white and covered in magnificent jewels, gifts from Napoleon to the woman he loved above all others.

As to the princess who came from Persia to become the Empress under the name of Noor Jehan- LIGHT OF THE WORLD-her white was the white of marble. The white marble she preferred to red sandstone of the fountains of her gardens in Lahore. Boucheron's jewels added color to the collection. Pearls, emeralds, rubies, diamonds and opalescent were Mughal's favorite gemstones. Boucheron mounted them on tiaras, necklaces and crests, displaying a unique savior faire reflecting the Arts decoratifs of the day and Parisian taste. For me preparing the collection was not stressful as compare to the burden I had of presenting my country in a foreign platform. And by the grace of God I did astoundingly well and created a great image for Pakistan.

How do maintain equilibrium between your personal and professional life?

I have been working in this field since 1978,it's been a long way coming to what I have achieved today. Initially when I started my work it was on a smaller scale, but when it grew it wasn't easy for me as a woman. Then with time strength and courage came that helped me surpass many obstacles. Time also helps prioritize important things i.e. children, husband, close immediate family and profession. Having four children, two boys and two girls, I have managed well. Both my daughters are married and are well settled in their families, where as for my sons the elder one has finished his studies and doing well professionally and the younger one is at an age where he wants freedom and independence.

What route and qualification you would recommend for up coming designers?

A degree would always be helpful, it gives one confidence and technical know how and route, there is no shortcut to experience. Hard work needs to be put in by designers in order to get something outstanding. Its good new designers are coming up, bringing with them their own signature style. Finesse and balance needs to be present whether the work is being done with sincerity or depth, professionalism or commercialism, class or plagiarism (bollywood inspired). For a design to be successful, it should not solely be an art piece but wearable, affordable and market savvy.

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